Tuesday 23 July 2013

Glynde to Eastbourne and back: Trailing out on the South Downs Way


It's time, the South Downs Way trail is calling, it's been waiting for us for 2 months, since we attempted to run the South Downs Way to Eastbourne but due to sickness we had to cut it short.
The sun is hiding behind the clouds but the warmth is at the rendez-vous. We are at Glynde Station and are making our way to our first ridge of the South Downs Way.20 miles away Eastbourne sea is waiting. We cross the A47 and soon climbs to join the South Down Way trail.

First Hill of the day
I'm surprised, my mind is blank, I have no apprehension of the heat,... last week's lesson seems to have done me good and the fact that it's not hot yet is helping too. There is no whisper. We cross fields of lamb, cows and wheat. We enjoy the views from both sides of the ridge. I feel like we are on the back of a sleeping dinosaur, going up and down its spine.

From the left side of the dinosaur

You can see Seaford on your right, and infinite fields from your left. The sun is playing up with the clouds  and we are going up and down the ridge until Alfriston. It is a nice cute village with tiny local shops where quietness and birds' song welcome you open arms. There we cross the small bridge and run flat to Litlington, another small village with a nice pub The Plough and Harrow. and when available a CAKE stand!


Hill just after Litlington

Check out the Descent/Ascent to Westdean
7 miles in with not much heat and the wind is sweet. I'm trailing out, my eyes are closed, we just finished climbing another staircase of roots and trees and and I let myself go. My feet caress the groundm I can feel the sun kissing my skin.



I should have kept my eyes open thou...we've missed a turn and I don't recognise the trail. We stop and look for an opening, I'm sure we need to go down.  We are on top of Westdean but where is the trail? I can feel it, we carry on walking until we find an opening and there it is: the descent to Westdean below the tree lines. The descent is marvellous and we have no regrets to not have follow the south downs way for this bit.



Up the staircase to the Park
We go up a deep staircase reach a small wall before descending towards the Seven Sister Country Park. The air is a mixture of sea air and...lamb poop. It's a bit hotter but the wind is chasing the heat, and somehow makes is enjoyable. The whispers are hiding away, it's seems easier to follow Tanya's advice when the sun is hidden behind clouds!





We are now on top of the Seven Sisters'Park. The views are impressive and even thou the path is filled up with tourists, their sound is covered by the sea wind blowing in our ears.

Seven Sisters'Park View
10 miles to go until Eastbourne and the 7 sisters are waiting.
I'm emptying my head of all thoughts of work life, routine and planning the following week. It's a hard thing to do to push it all out. So I am trailing out, the same way people pass out or black out.  I am not forgetting where I am nor do I see the dark, as my heart skips to the trail beat and my steps run the trail flow. None of the cliffs sisters are the same. Your first sister cliff starts with a relaxing flat and shallow descent, no holes, nice grass. Its other face thou, is a tourist playground with happy faces and cute message.

First Sister Cliff
The second sister has a deeper descent, some holes, less grass and its other face doesn't have any tourists drawing. You keep undulating...by the fourth sister, your quads are now feeling it, you pay much more attention to your footing and tummy tucks as the descents become more and more demanding. By the last sister, you are thankful for the wind pushing you up and slowing you down, while refreshing you all along.



It's beautiful, the clouds colour the sea of different shades of blue, the cliffs are not white nor yellow and the choices of trail paths are indefinite. You are now in Burling gap, with its nice National Trust Cafe and parking lot. We decide to stop for a toilet break and a nice Tango. We have time, only 7 miles to go until Eastbourne seaside. We enjoy the views and the company of others, we lock eyes and share a moment of plenitude with the nature around us.

An air of South of France
Belle Tout Lighthouse tucked in between sea trees which are making the trail looking like South of France, is longing for us. We reach the lighthouse and are now making our way to up towards Beachy Head pub. The descent to Eastbourne Sea is close by.
1 mile left before the trail becomes a seaside promenade where the sound of the waves is mixed with laughs of kids... 20 miles with no whisper... Welcome to Eastbourne.

View of Eastbourne from Beachy Head Pub


Day 2:It's 9 am, we are ready to go back. After a nice breakfast at May Day Cafe, an OK night of sleep at Victoria hotel we are heading back towards Beachy Head Trail.

Happy Mick!
Breakfast of a champion
There is no clouds in the sky, a small sea breeze caches my hair, reminding me that she will be with me throughout the whole way back. We can already feel that the temperatures won't be like yesterday. Eastbourne seaside promenade is already buzzing of locals and tourists alike enjoying this exceptional weather. We walk to the trail, enjoying the fact, that we don't have to sweat too much yet! our ascent towards Beachy Head and the lighthouse begin. We run all we can as we don't want to get struck by the heat. Little whisper is waiting, but this time I'm ready for it. We don't stop until Birling Gap. It's HOT, I wet my buff with cold water, do the same with my neck and my shoulders. I'm ready for you whisper. The last sister becomes sister one, she is a soft ascent, warming your muscles up, getting you ready for her others sisters. Sister Cliff 5 becomes number 2, her descent becomes a steep ascent but your reward is her floral design:

One of the sisters' floral design
Yesterday ascents become descents and vice versa. I close my eyes on each ascent. You have to try it, it's the best feeling in the world. Obviously don't do it on a narrow path or when there is loads of people around! But here, by closing your eyes you show how vulnerable you are and so the trails guide you to this peaceful place where you can walk up a hill faster than you ever thought you could. You are no longer in a challenge with that hill, you can embrace it and release any tension.


Core Cooling


We are back on first sister, and Cuckmere River Beach. It's 11:30 am, the sun is up high, and we are sweating. The water is so mesmerizing that we run down to the pebble beach and decide to have a strawberry break and a cool down. Water is looking like the Mediterranean beach and it's soo tempting. We decide to take a dip. The water is COLD! but it cools down our core and we feel contempt. I would like the time to stand still, the waves are kissing the pebbles, the sound is so calming
Take a deep breath, take a picture...I wish we could lay there all afternoon but we still have 10 miles to go and Titine the car is waiting for us. I wet my buff again, drown my fully clothes self one more time and trail out to Alfriston. 

The White Horse
It's flat,... there is no wind. Sweating...we reach the churchyard looking for fresh water. It's on the side of the church. Another wet buff, cooling head and mind. We walk up towards Jerry's Pond, crossing more lamb poop land, before arriving to White Lion Pond. It is the last descent to the car, I'm going to enjoy it, I won't be closing my eyes as the trail becomes a broken road but I will make it last as I don't want to go back to reality, back to the city where work is life and trail is a round of a park. But just 5 more days, trail and I'll be back to your arms.

If you want details of this gateway, please check the route page :)

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